Friday, December 7, 2012

Gripe Session

Shortly after entering Baja California Sur (BCS), I was attacked with an awkward case of upset stomach and dysentery. Definitely not the most pleasant thing in the world, but if I managed to sit still, most of the time it didn’t bother me. So, on the morning we woke at the Rice & Beans Restaurant and Hotel, we decided to move on instead of exploring the mission there. I figured I wouldn’t be able to enjoy it much, so we would catch it on our way back.

As I still wasn’t feeling well by the time we came to Santa Rosalía that day, we bypassed our adventures in that town as well. That is actually a big deal as Santa Rosalía is a French-based town with several items that I wanted to check including a church designed by A.G. Eiffel (yes, designer of the Eiffel Tower in Paris) and a French-style bakery. For me to give up delicious baked goods is a serious thing. We ended up all the way at Bahía Concepción (Conception Bay) that afternoon. Still feeling pained, I didn’t do much anything that day at all. Between treks to the toilet, I did manage to pay the establishment (Buenaventura Resort) for the use of the beach. It was quite the shame to be feeling bad there, as water looked fabulous, and I would have loved to put in the kayak to explore. In the late afternoon, Jonathan offered to drive me to the nearest pharmacy to get whatever we could for me. I would have asked him to do it for me, but as I would have to go to, I didn’t take him up on the offer. The thought of braving the highway at night on top of trying to find a pharmacy in that busy little town (Mulegé) nearby, and the effort of trying to obtain the appropriate medicine (not know what it should be in the first place) in Spanish did not appeal to me. I figured if I wasn’t better by the morning, I would brave it then.

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Our spot along the beach at Bahía Concepción.

Next morning, I was feeling much better, with only a random upper muscle spasm, almost like I had worked out my abs too much the day before. It was pretty windy here, so we decided to move on again. As we drove, we observed that it was bit moister here with more vegetation. Little did I expect that meant more insects. That night we stayed near Puerto Escondido at Playa el Quemado, or Rattlesnake Beach as the English-speakers call it. I had thought about putting out the kayak here as well, but the water wasn’t very conducive, and we didn’t have direct access to the beach, as all the winterers claimed the spots with beach access. To top it off, there were a ton of insects. I even spotted a mosquito in broad daylight when I first got out of the van. Not a good sign. Even bug spray couldn’t keep them at bay. Definitely not a desirable place to stay.

Needless to say, the next morning, we cut out to our next location. We ended up at Campestre La Pila Balneario and Trailer Park. This was (an attempt at) a nice little resort with a pool and cold showers. You could tell that in the busy season, they had bands and bars in service as well. But the pool wasn’t filtered and housed water bugs and toilets were occupied by bugs and mosquitos. At least it was pretty to look at.

Now, it was either at Rattlesnake Beach or at La Pila, but Jonathan and I both seemed to pick up some chigger bites or something. Jonathan’s are concentrated at his feet, but mine cover most of my body. At most of my joints (shoulders, elbows, wrists, knuckle, knee, ankle) and other parts of my body have at least one bite. And, these delinquents sting. I mean, I hate mosquito bites or anything that makes me itch, but I put calamine lotion on them and the itching normally stops and the bump goes away in a day or two. These guys are vicious. Calamine lotion and even my Lanacaine spray with Benzocaine for pain relief doesn’t help relieve the burning and itching feeling. Ironically, I found that my antifungal spray did help relieve the burning sensation a bit. And, since Jonathan is mostly able to not have any issues, of course, it can be deduced that besides my skin being a bit more sensitive and dermographic than his, this insatiable desire to itch and the ensuing pain is all in my head. I did find that if I had something with which to engross my mind, I could bear the pain a bit more, so when we weren’t traveling and listening to our latest audiobook (Shadowmagic 2 by John Lenahan), I was reading a book. However, sometimes forcing myself to read past the pain didn’t work. so Thursday night, Jonathan and I watched The Fellowship of the Ring, more than 2 hours of pain-numbing goodness. Unfortunately none of this helps at night, so my sleep has been haphazard. Friday, these bites are a bit less painful, finally. Hopefully they will continue to heal and disappear. They have long worn out their “welcome.”

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Just a sampling of the bites that I obtained. I marked them with an “X” to verify that they weren’t multiplying.

Between my welcome gift of sickness followed by a tango with insects resulting in bites, I am not a fan of the north part of Baja California Sur. Perhaps the southern part will be more enticing, we will see.

Just to get out all my complaints at once, so you don’t have to hear too much about them later, I will go ahead and get out my last gripe. I have been enjoying travelling around Mexico, but I am getting very bored with our meals. Normally, our meals are a selection of rice, pasta, and soups, with an occasional salad or quesadilla, and normally a vegetable thrown in. Since our American-bought stores ran out, it has mostly been rice and pasta. Apparently Mexicans either don’t believe in soup (I think they do, though, since both restaurants we ate at provided it complimentary with the meal) or they believe in making them from scratch. This is really inconvenient as not even Wal-Marts here carry any good soups. They only care cream of corn and tomato soup. How lame is that? Along those lines, they don’t seem to carry any good-looking specimens of one of my favorite vegetables: broccoli (it just goes so well with most of what we eat). Actually, most fruits and vegetables just don’t look very good here unless you are at a port, even then they can be sketch. Obviously, I am getting bored with the lack of variety and vegetables. I guess I have a few options, none of which are very easy:
  • I could start learning how to cook with common Mexican foodstuffs that would do well in the van
    • I am not sure which foods those are
    • I would need to do some internet research
  • I could start eating out more
    • I am slightly hesitant as the last time I did this corresponded with awkward intestinal business
    • Costs more money
    • Not always easy to find something to our liking
  • I could huff it back to the states
    • it is a long distance
    • Not quite ready to leave

Well, that ends the recount of my grievances for now. I’ll let you know if anymore significant ones come up. ;) Here is a pretty picture as a reward for putting up with my tirade.

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Thursday, December 6, 2012

The Art of the Spot

There is a certain art, a learned skill, something not wholly describable by science, behind finding a good camping Spot.  Deciphering the variable plethora of descriptions, the meaning of terms like “good” and “acceptable” or “watch for rabid dogs”…



A good choosing of the Spot, can change a decent night, into an immeasurable hateful one; and a dreadful one into a restful stay.  In a glance we must be able to determine if the quiet circle of RVs is a group of retirees out for a nice getaway, or a crew of exhausted rave goers sleeping off their ecstasy highs. The difference between crazed local lunatic, and the nice elderly proprietor of the local store is surprising low.

If one is willing to do without amenities such as flushing toilets and showers it is entirely possible to find some excellent locations for dirt cheap (under 10$USD).  The Spot below was la Gringa beach in Bahia Los Angeles.  There was no-one else on the beach (over a mile long).  We saw maybe 3 people the two days we were there.

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Of course then there is the question of ancillary opportunities.  For example, the Spot below had a large collection of trails circling a meadow and some sweet lake action.  Very nice for toning those calves. 

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Of course there is always the desire for solitude, while still being close enough to other travelers to discourage the occasional Smash-N-Grab™®©.  The following Spot was at a desert ranch in the famous Baja Gas-Gap©.  This is a fabled 195 mile run between El Rosario and Villa Jesus Maria in which there is Zero gas stations. You can just barely see the nearest camper in the left background about 300 feet from Chuck.  

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The restrooms at this site were, “interesting”.  They probably hadn’t been repaired since they were installed in the 80s (typical of the cheap places we stay) the ladies and mens were painted fluorescent pink and blue respectively (if you squinted enough to see through the cobwebs and dust).  Meh, what can you expect for 60 pesos?

Now we are members of the internet generation, and as you have probably guessed we need internet to post to this glorious blog.  So occasionally we need to find a place to get internet.  In the states and Canada we would just stop at a restaurant or coffee shop with internetage.  The general speed of internet would be fast enough for us to complete our tasks in a few hours.  In Baja is has been a bit different.  Due to the generally slower speeds we have been seeking campgrounds with WIFI so that we can take longer to do our business.  This has been made easier due to the need for fresh water (harder to find public/free water of good quality down here) and our desire not to boondock in awkward locations. Due to these needs we have been staying in RV parks and similar most nights in Baja.  Following are some Spots with WIFI, not as pretty as the more remote, or the boondock spots, but when you need the connectivity…

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Now, there remains another important category for the Spot.  This, of course, is the all important BoonDock.  There is an art to boondocking.  This is a difficult art in Baja, as people will live right up next to the water (ocean views I guess?).  Electricity and city water are not needed, just an old trailer and a bucket full of oysters will make a home.  Despite this difficulty the core tenants of boondocking remain the same. The Spot must be sufficiently remote/useless that no-one claims ownership (or cares to put up a sign).  The Spot must have a trail or road in good enough condition to accommodate Chuck (I have driven some astonish crappy roads…).  The spot must have ground where Chuck can be parked and leveled.  The better the view at the Spot, the more crap I will put up with to get/find it.  Following are a few of the better ones.

Stand by for Scenic overload in...

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Lake Mead NRA

Lake Mead NRA

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Second favorite place in Alaska in the fall
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Sunday, December 2, 2012

First Tastes of Baja California Sur

After leaving Bahía de los Angeles, we ended up crossing the border into Baja California Sur to stay the night in Guerrero Negro. Apparently in Mexico, crossing a state border is almost like crossing national borders. They have a post at the border to protect against spreading of certain agricultural issues. As such, you aren’t supposed to bring any type of fruit across the border, which is on the of the reasons we hesitated crossing on Saturday: we had one lone Granny Smith apple left. Supposedly, they always fumigate your tires as well. When we crossed, it was rather informal. An officer stood in the middle of the road to interrogate both sides of traffic. When he asked about the fruit, he told me I could go ahead, since there was only the one but next time not to have any. And, he didn’t fumigate the tires. Maybe that is during a different season? Regardless, it wasn’t as arduous, as I thought it would be.

Guerrero Negro is one of the newest towns on the Baja. It is a company town that is based on harvesting the salts on the tidal flats nearby. However, it has recently grown acclaim for the whale watching that occurs from late December to April. Since it was not whale-watching time and I would likely completely miss them, I was disillusioned with Guerrero Negro and wasn’t interested in discovering its finer points. We did stay a RV park with a nice restaurant attached. There I enjoyed fish burritos while Jonathan had the white sea bass for dinner. The food was quite delicious; I would recommend it.

The next morning, we were out of breakfast foods again, and in desperate need of clean laundry. So we spent the majority of the morning seeing to those needs. While at the laundromat, I encountered an adorable Siamese kitten, which I played with while we waited on our clothes to dry. She was quite insistent on being petted. I missed my cat.

Laundry done, we went to market to pick up some food. As a note, if you are a fan of parmesan and peanut butter (as we are), before going to another country, you should stock up on these items. They last for a long time and it will save you some serious cash and shortages. Most countries don’t believe in these items, and if they do, they are costly. We had to go to a special, expensive section of the store. These two items together cost us $20. I find that these markets also don’t do dried foods like craisins or mangoes, either, sadly. I have been out of those for a while now. Maybe in Loreto, I will be able to restock my stash.

Leaving Guerrero Negro after our errands were completed, we stopped in San Ignacio. In the middle of the night, I had to make a bathroom run. On my return trip across the lot, another Siamese kitten about the same age as the last one found me. So I got to cuddle her all the way back to the van. When I mentioned the cats to Jonathan, (after warning me that I couldn’t have one) he mentioned that Siamese are bred to be super friendly. I didn’t know that. When I was growing up, we had several generations of Siamese cats. They were all pretty friendly, except for the old matron, Snowball, who wouldn’t put up with nonsense and did her own thing. I had always just thought that I had won over their devotion with my charm, but seeing these kittens and hearing about their breed has made me realize my delusions. They way they warm up to perfect strangers, no wonder they get stolen on a regular basis.

Spanish Words of the Day:
Laundromat: la lavanderia
Market: el mercado
Cat: el gato
kitten: el gatito