Thursday, April 26, 2018

Tablelands Circuit

Having finished in the Golden Bay area, we again headed to the Flora carpark in Kahurangi National Park.  This time the carpark was 80% empty, promising to be an uncrowded trail given it was a weekday. 

At over 900 meters, it was a bit blustery and cold, with temperatures about 45F.  A few passing clouds deposited some light rain, which was predicted to end later that day.  With the clouds, we decided to the do the circuit with our first night at Salisbury Lodge.  The first third was on a 4x4 road, and was fast-going.

 DSCN8096

A bit of a rainbow at the start of the track.
JML_IMG_20180412_131810

This area is a predator-control zone, and a Great Spotted Kiwi recovery area.  The largest of the Kiwi, these birds roam the scrub and grasslands of the alpine and subalpine regions.  Hunting at night, their calls are quite surprising.  They forage in pairs, calling to each other to keep in touch, and to establish territory with other birds.
DSCN8095

The ever-present weka, hunting for crumbs.
DSCN8099

DSCN8097

DSCN8107

DSCN8110

The soil here is thin and rocky.  Often only the roots of the forest preventing runaway erosion.
DSCN8101

DSCN8108

Once a stock route, this 4x4 road and trail has been the domain of trampers/hikers for most of a century.   Some of the earlier residents had a artistic flair.
DSCN8114

At Gridiron Gulch, we detoured 50 meters up a steep half-slid slope to a rocky overhang.  Snugged up against and beneath the rock is Upper Gridiron Hut.  Built long before the DOC and its standard hut designs, this one is a gem.  Sadly we didn’t get a photo of the hut itself!  So you will have to google it, or visit it on your own.

Just to the left of the hut, a swing is anchored into the rock, with a nearby fire pit, this is first class in the bush!
DSCN8117

The window above the door is decorated with a mural.  Pictured here are two cheeky Kea and a possum tearing into a trampers pack.
JML_IMG_20180412_151539

Farther down the track, lower Gridiron shelter is a Rock Bivvy built under a massive boulder. 
DSCN8119

A stream runs right under the site.
DSCN8121

Hooks to hang packs and food.  The various species of rats will eat through anything.
DSCN8122

A hanging chair was here once, now it serves as a swing and pack hangar. 
DSCN8124

The road to this point is still passable.  The large rocks stacked to make a ford have washed out, just father down the road it turns into a track anyways.
DSCN8126

As we continued on, the track climbed regularly and slowly upwards.  Eventually we left the forest cover for the alpine tussock fields.  At this point it was raining steadily, and a strong gusty wind was driving the rain.  The difficulty was the tussocks, waist high and covered in rain, they soaked us within 200 meters.  The track itself was a small stream, and promised no easy passage.  We stopped briefly to put on our rain pants and tighten our pack covers, and we set off again.  It was only a few degrees above freezing, and with the wind it was tough going, even with dry feet.  After an eternity (about an hour) we arrived at the spacious and well-apportioned Salisbury lodge.  Pleasantly surprising, a semi-retired couple from the UK had beaten us there by some margin, and there was a good fire already going in the stove.  Amazingly, I believe they were wetter than we were.  With the sunset long lost behind the cloud cover, we called it a night with the wind howling away.

The next morning the sun rose behind a patchy but thick layer of clouds.  A generic forecast for the area showed it clearing later in the morning, and getting better the farther east we went.  So we packed up and headed the long way to Mt Arthur Hut via the Sphinx Creek route through the area known as “the potholes”.  It was cold and the tussocks and ground still wet, so we wisely put on all our rain gear.

2018-04-13_065855_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_JML_IMG_20180413_065842

2018-04-13_085356_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8139

As is typical with these routes, the track follows streams and drainage.  Given the recent rain and wetland area, we spent half our time trying to avoid soaking ourselves to the waist in fast flowing frigid water.
2018-04-13_085734_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8140


This rock (for which the creek is named) once head a sphinx-like head.  In 1929 a earthquake knocked it off!
2018-04-13_090746_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8150

2018-04-13_090756_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8152

This area (the potholes) is part of a kilometer-long region of raised limestone.  Dissolved by weak acids in surface water, sinkholes, caves, and strange formations abound.  Check out this hole and arch.
2018-04-13_090318_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8144

Here two large sinkholes form a natural bridge.  Don’t stray too far from the path.
2018-04-13_092954_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8167

2018-04-13_091420_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_JML_IMG_20180413_091404

Now running deep beneath us, the creek once dropped into this sinkhole, and the cave beyond.
2018-04-13_091834_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8159

The sinkholes and old stream beds are piled upon each other, it really gives the area a strange feel.
2018-04-13_092854_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8165

A long defunct stream bed with strange mushroom formations. Even here, dozens of small sinkholes drop into the abyss.  This is seriously not a good place to wander.  I am reminded of the sand pit monsters from Star Wars…
2018-04-13_093948_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8179

2018-04-13_094620_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8186

As so many adventures begin, we came to a crossroads in the forest.  At this point our friends from the night before caught up to us.  The weather had cleared a bit, and they were going to try for Mt Arthur hut as well.

2018-04-13_094748_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8190

Whenever I see a time range this large, for a distance this short, I realize it will be a challenge.
2018-04-13_094910_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8191

We spent the next hour threading our way through misty forest, sidling around whimsically shaped blocks of limestone and treacherous tree roots, with plenty of sinkholes and fissures as well.
2018-04-13_095104_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8193

2018-04-13_100838_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_JML_IMG_20180413_100829

2018-04-13_095050_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8192

2018-04-13_095846_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8196

Some strange plants call the forests of NZ home.
2018-04-13_103247_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_JML_IMG_20180413_103237

And so we crossed into the alpine herbfields once more.
2018-04-13_104022_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8221

2018-04-13_105246_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_DSCN8224

Wet snow became more common.  To our surprise a weka has passed this way a few hours before.  For at least 4km it followed the track.  Tough birds.
2018-04-13_110809_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_110807

Soon the wind reached gale strength along the ridge.  Despite the blowing rain, we were still mostly dry and warm from the 800 meter (gross) ascent. So we decided to push on, thinking we were closer to Mt Arthur.  As we climbed up Gordons Pyramid, the rain turned to sleet, and clouds closed in.  Apparently our weather forecast did not survive our ascent into the alpine.  Also, $24 Amazon special direct-from-Malaysia rainpants are not waterproof in 90kph winds.  I would say they are water resistant, or maybe just water frustrating.  Good thing I was wearing wool thermals.  For those not-in-the-know, hollow fibers such as wool retain substantial insulation value even when soaking wet. Good thing we packed the hand warmers; Jen was using them for feet and hands!

At the summit of the Pyramid, the ground was coated with freezing rain, and signs still bore a coating from the night previous.   Notice Jen’s jacket on the side of the picture.  Not an accident, this was the only way to keep the driving rain out of the camera!  I firmly believe that these distances are not accurate.  I suspect these signs were put up by the tramping club long before GPS…

2018-04-13_112925_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_112924

2018-04-13_112917_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_112915

2018-04-13_112953_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_112952

At this point we realized just how far we had left to go.  Already too late to turn back, we trudged on in the wind and rain.   As did a bird friend as well. This one seemed a bit large and might be a kiwi's track.

2018-04-13_120626_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_120625

As we descended to the other side of the range, the cloud cleared some, and the rain stopped.  It was actually colder on the other side of the saddle!  Starving, we found a spot out of the wind to make some quick warm soup.  Only then did we discover that I had forgotten to pack the lighter.  No problem, I had an igniter on the stove.  It broke on the second click…  No problem, I got this, spare matches.  After 5 matches break, I discover that the sandpaper friction material on the box has worn off!  My hands too cold to hold the matches, we give up and settle for a snack bar.  After over 400km my boots waterproofing chose today to give out.  With the snow frozen to my boots, my toes are numb and soaked.  Wool only does so much!

2018-04-13_121332_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_121331

Chilled from the long descent, we are starting to reach exhaustion, we start the climb to the ridge leading to Mt Arthur.  To the right is a 40-minute slog to the summit, to the left is a warm hut.  At the center of this photo is Mt Arthur rising into the clouds.  Obviously we take the route to the hut.  Just before the hut, we pass some hunters climbing up.  (It is fairly mild and sheltered down here.)  They are wearing shorts, chaps, and rubber boots.  I hope they didn’t go too far west!

2018-04-13_133241_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_133240

Sitting in the hut trying to warm my feet up, a couple come down from Mt Arthur.  Apparently they had to stop before the summit due to meter-deep snow drifts.  So much for that warm and clear forecast!  Looking east over the valley it is sunny…  So mountains do indeed make their own weather!

Here is Mt Arthur from near the Hut. 
2018-04-13_164312_NZ SI Tableland Circuit_Jen_IMG_20180413_164309

After finally eating lunch and warming our feet, we decide to walk the remaining hour back to the car park.  The hut is near capacity, and our warm foam mattress is calling.  With the snow cover, climbing Mt Arthur would not be enjoyable, even if the clouds did clear.

And so we ended our outing.  We have had very good weather this summer in NZ in general.  There is a reason that people die in the back country here every year.  At higher altitudes, it can drop below freezing any time of the year.  Windchill and exhaustion can kill.  Had we been hiking without the right gear, this hike could have been dangerous.  Thankfully it was just a bit miserable. 

Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Wharariki Beach and Te Waikoropupu Springs

A bit farther down the road from Farewell Spit is a bit of scenic farmland known as Wharariki Beach and the Green Hill track.
DSCN7966

DSCN7961

DSCN7964

DSCN7965

The most interesting view at this is some seals.  Specifically NZ fur seal pups.
DSCN7970

A shallow, sheltered pool is a favorite spot for females to give birth and fatten up their pups.
DSCN7972

Of course the pups spend lots of time practicing seal life skills like diving, backflips, catching prey etc.   The nearby rocks make for a great viewing spot, often less than 5 meters from the pool.
DSCN7974

On the other side of Takaka Hill lies Te Waikoropupu Springs.  With some of the clearest water in the country, these springs are the outflow of the sinkhole-and-cave-fed rivers on Takaka Hill.  After spending up to 10 years filtering through the limestone, the water pours out of the ground a crystal-clear blue. DSCN7991

DSCN7985

DSCN7988

DSCN7989

Our parking spot for the night was at Pupu Hydro Power Station.  Located in the mountains above Golden Bay, this private power station uses an old gold-mining water race to feed a 250kW turbine.  Originally rejected by the government as too expensive, the local government secured a loan to build the station in 1929.  This became the first electrical supply for the region. It operated for 51 years continuously at 0.8 gigawatt hours yearly before its first major failure due to previous lightning-strike damage.  Currently the station makes more than 150,000$NZD per year in electricity, with post-restoration capacity being double initial output.

The facility is an operating museum, and a walking track loops around the water race and penstock.   Check out the power room below.  The turbine in the cylinder closest, and the alternator is farthest.  Notice the enormous flywheel and mechanical/hydraulic governor.  Most of the equipment is original from 1929.
DSCN8003

The replacement pelton water wheel cups (machined from solid stainless).
DSCN8006

DSCN7999

DSCN7999

DSCN7999

Here is the cableway used to move materials up to the water race.  Just below it, the penstock starts its 107-meter vertical drop to the turbine.
DSCN8007

It is a bit of a hike up the mountain to where the race begins.
DSCN8013

Here is the river that feeds the station.  Being whitewater rapids, the blue ducks were right at home.
DSCN8019

Here is the race entrance gate.  Under the blue drum (left) electronic controls regulate the water flow, and monitor for blockage.
DSCN8021

The walkway straddles the race as it winds precariously across the steep mountainside.
DSCN8035

DSCN8031

DSCN8034

DSCN8043

This is the inlet filter/grate.  An automatic brush cleans debris from it regularly.
DSCN8046

The penstock and cableway from above.
DSCN8048

Past the penstock, the remains of the original raceway are still present. 
DSCN8050

Check out that old valve and pipe.  The pipe is spiral wound sheet secured with rivets, and wateproofed with tar paper!  Likely original.
DSCN8052

Still holds water in places…
DSCN8054