Stewart and Ulva Islands, Part 1

For some time we had planned to visit Stewart Island and its companion, Ulva Island.  Located south of Invercargill, these islands are known for their remoteness, and mostly-unmolested native forests.  Uniquely, ferrets, stoats, and weasels were never introduced here.  With only rats and mice to predate, the native bird life has had a fighting chance.  The vast majority of the island is a national park, and very little was logged.  Ulva Island is much smaller, and sheltered inside Patterson Inlet.  A campaign was conducted some years ago to wipe out the rats and mice here.  Ongoing trapping prevents their reintroduction.  Some very rare species (once widespread) such as the saddleback can be seen here. 

There are two ways to get to Stewart Island.  The first is by ferry (only for people, no vehicles).  The straight is fairly narrow (and shallow) but the Southern Ocean is relentless.  Thankfully we had a calm day.  The other method is by small aircraft.  We opted for the ferry (both ways), as it was cheaper.

Upon arrival ,we decided to do a couple of short walks nearby the island's only town, Oban.  With only 400 full-time residents, it is a small and unique place.


Penguins often cross the roads at dusk/dawn.





This remote settlement has a varied history.  Antarctic whaling vessels would lay up in this bay to process the whale carcasses. The winch on the left was used to haul the carcasses up the beach.  The vessel on the right is called a try pot.  The whale fat would be boiled therein to render out the valuable oil.



I find it strange to see mallard ducks swimming in the ocean…


The view was somewhat marred by the floating piece of western luxury, the cruise ship.  If you look close, you might see a white-capped mollymawk in the center.  They have a wingspan of over 6ft, and a very distinguished brow.


Flying thousands of miles with nary a wingbeat, they are dauntless gliders.  Using the difference in wind speed near the surface and the trailing edge of the waves, they exert almost no effort.  They repeatedly soar up into the air, and swoop down, wingtips often just brushing the surface.


A few more birds waited for us along the walk. Such as this pair of shelducks.


And this very frustrated bellbird.


A few tui were hanging about.


A nearby beach had a wrecked boat, so we went for a wander.




 





We watched the sun set from “observation rock” which was a letdown, as the trees blocked the sunset…

And then Jen had us wandering the streets, trails, and parks in search of kiwi (which outnumber humans on the island by nearly 50 to 1 and the only species not considered to be endangered), with no success, either.