Colorado - Four Corners

Dates: 4-18-21 to 2-20-21

The Colorado Plateau, otherwise known as the “Four Corners” for the four states which converge on it, has had several millennia of occupation by humans.  The climate of the area is quite dry, which does a good job of preserving artifacts and buildings. 

 

Mesa Verde National Park is home to some of the most impressive, and largest collection of prehistoric stone dwellings.  There is one large complex which typically allows foot traffic, but with COVID it was closed.  Not much loss really, as these large complexes really require distance to appreciate.

 

You may think these buildings have been reconstructed, but other than some stabilization, and some excavation, they are in as-found condition.  Most are between 700-800 years old.  This includes the wooden floor and roof supports!

 

 

 

 

 

A stone pestle used to grind corn into meal.

 

For scale here is a zoomed out photo.  In the upper right is a cliff dwelling complex.  Its a far bit of a walk to the mesa top farms, and down to the canyon floor for water.

 

Here are some hand-carved steps to access an upper level.  Remember, stone tools only!

  

Count em, over 150 rooms.

 

Around 1200CE, the migration from the mesa tops to cliff dwellings increased.  About 40 years later there was a population boom.  By 1300CE the Mesa was nearly vacant, leaving nothing but unanswered questions.   On the mesa rim was the sun temple.  With thick walls, no living spaces, and no sign of a roof.  Such a structure would have a been a huge undertaking for the society, did it contribute the dissolution of this settlement?  It's suggested that its layout may have been used for celestial observations.

 

 

Why did the Puebloan peoples decide to live here?  There are a few reasons why this mesa was likely chosen.  The mesa slopes gently to the south, this increases its total sunlight, and lengthens the growing season.  Its high elevation increases total precipitation over the surrounding plains.  The canyons surrounding it create a warming effect.  At night warm air from the canyon floors rises over the mesa.  This lengthens the growing season by several weeks, by holding off nighttime frosts.   Finally, the forests provided ample firewood, and edible plants.

 

Still, farming in the 4-corners area without irrigation is a difficult and risky business.  Multi-year droughts are common, and even with extensive granaries, feeding a large population isn’t easy.  To reduce their risk, the Puebloans used the topography to their advantage.  Wherever natural stream beds formed to channel run off, they would build these stone dams.  The ones below are over 700 years old.  These dams were back-filled with soil.  This system concentrated rainwater in these areas, increasing the precipitation for the crops planted there.  In some cases, as much as 10x the normal amount.  This allowed increased yields in good years.  Even in drought conditions, they could grow their staples of squash, maize and beans in these areas.

 

 

 

Prior to 1100CE, most of the residents lived on the mesa tops, near their farms.  These homes were dug into the ground for warmth, and would have a timbered and plaster roof.   Note the small hole at the bottom of the photo, combined with a wind deflecting stone inside, this served to provide a constant source of fresh air for the fire, and smoke would exit through the roof hole. 

 

 

Prior to 950CE these would have been built without masonry, instead using just wood and mud. 

 

If you listen closely you might hear the sound of a woman pounding corn, children playing in the trees, a young girl chatting as she cleans a deerskin, maybe even the chanting of men performing some obscure ritual in the nearby kiva.  

Nearby is Canyon of the Ancients National Monument.  In a different style, there are numerous ruins dating back over 900 years.

 

The roof is modern, but the walls are as found, with rubble removed.

 

Remember, stone and wood tools only, no cement or cement based mortar. 

 

 

 

 

Sometime around 1300CE, the Puebloans began a decades long migration out of the 4 corners area.  There is not clear indication as to the cause.  Social unrest, pressure from neighboring groups, and extended food shortages are prevailing theories.

 

It is a bit dusty here, that hasn’t changed much in 900 years!

 

New Mexico, Part 2

Dates: 4-12-21 to 4-13-21

 

Continuing through Santa Fe, we stopped at a curious roadside point of interest.  The aptly named Soda Dam crosses nearly the entire width of the valley.  Only the efforts of the road building crew, and the erosion of the stream have broken it.  Produced by a calcium bearing hot spring, it has migrated across the valley floor, creating an over-50ft-tall dam of deposited limestone.   At over 300ft wide, it is a fairly imposing wall.

 

Below is the active side, where hot water flowing over the top of the dome continues to deposit limestone, even while the stream has cut a channel below.

 

 

 

Someone created a few artistic reptiles from nails.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We took the afternoon to hike up Paliza Canyon.  Containing much of the same tufa rock which the cave homes were carved from, it is known for its fun rock formations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

The following day we visited a few of a few of the interesting areas in the Lybrook Badlands.  You can see why it was named a badlands area by early settlers.  The highly eroded region is all but impassible to foot and horse traffic.

 

 

 

 

 

These arid areas with alkaline soil often have very interesting plants.

 

 

In the sand these footprints tell the story of a fox hunting a mouse. 

 

 

A nearby area was the inspiration for painter Georgia O’Keefe’s “The Black Place”.  At times, it almost feels like another planet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course, even here, tenacious lichens are right at home on barren rock faces.

 

 

The sediments of this area are almost entirely made from various volcanic discharges.  These flaking boulders were chunks of lava, blasted nearly a hundred miles from a long extinct volcano.  The lighter clays are mostly weathered volcanic ash, deposited in vast layers in eruptions that lasted decades.

 

 

Various minerals can be found in small chunks, likely blasted out of surrounding rock layers by violent explosions.  Hurling them far and wide.

 

 

We finished up our badlands tour by visiting “Hoodooville”, the site of hundreds of cool sediment towers.  The landscape was brutally hard to navigate, with sudden gulley's and wash outs abounding, and impassible features everywhere. 

 

 

The highly-erodible volcanic sediments create some stark vertical changes.  Whenever a piece of hard rock or sediment is present, it acts as a cap or roof, slowing or stopping the erosion of the material below.  This creates towers that exceed 60ft, often called hoodoos.